The third day of our two-week vacation in Paris was all about walking. We decided to explore the 10th and 11th arrondissement. I think it was on this day we realized that we shouldn’t, and couldn’t, stay in the determined arrondissement. We kept getting side-tracked. However, I wanted to check out a section called “Little India” and look at a few passages – Passage Brady and Passage du Prado – both of it we briskly walked through, nothing exciting for us. But Jay did find a small restaurant for lunch. I wasn’t particularly hungry and just shared a plate of curried chicken and rice plate, which wasn’t too bad (I’m trying to find out what the restaurant is called, and I know it’s on Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis, but I can’t remember the name.)
We also just walked down the Canal St. Martin. I’m sure it’s much prettier during non-Winter season as it was pretty desolate. But it was a nice walk and a good place to look at some very nice and attractive street art.
After exploring the Canal St. Martin area, we decided to head up to the 11th arrondissement. On the way there, we inadvertently walked passed Pere Lachaise Cemetery.
Kris: “Oh, look a cemetary!”
Jay: …. silence ….
Kris: “I wonder if it’s….” looking at map. “Oh, it’s the Pere Lachaise Cemetery. Jim Morrison is buried there.”
Jay: “Who’s that?”
Kris: “From The Doors.”
Jay: “Who’s that?”
Kris: “A band….”
Jay: “Oh, ok.” continued walking….
We decided that we weren’t going in, but then happened upon the entrance and decided to take a peek. Looking at the map, we found Jim Morrison’s grave, walked a little then decided it was too far, so we turned around. At lease we could say we’ve been to the cemetery.
On Anthony Bourdain’s layover, majority of the restaurants he recommended were in this arrondissement, so we figured we’d have no problem finding somewhere to eat dinner. We were wrong – very wrong. We headed to this place called Septime (80 rue de Charonne) and found out it didn’t open till 7:30 and you needed reservations.
We decided to head to La Pure Cafe (14 Rue Jean Macé), which was close by and easy to find, however, when we crossed the street towards it we were stopped by a Frenchman whispering to us in French. Yes, whispering. Jay stumbled out, “We don’t speak English…” in English (he was flustered, I guess), but he understood and explained (in English), they were filming in the restaurant and we could not go near it. Aw, man.
So we stopped at a bar called Closing Time on the corner of rue de Charonne for a beer while waiting for Septime to open. Right as we were leaving, we met Irene. We started to talk to Irene because she mentioned that she works for a yacht company that tours the Greek Islands (yes, we want to do that). She then marked our map of places to go, including Marche A’ligre which she ordered us to go to on Saturday. Then she wrote down a recipe we could cook while there. Very friendly!
We decided to go to a place we had seen on the way which had the word FONDUE written on the window. Jay laughed and said it’s a Chinese hotpot place, not fondue. So we went there – Auciel (97 rue de Charonne). We had to wait a little while, but got a seat (it was VERY packed with LOTS of Chinese – nearly the entire place was filled with Chinese).
The food was really good and you order what goes inside your individual pot. We thought we shouldn’t spend too much and stopped ourselves (we thought we were paying by the item). When the check arrived, Jay stared at it for a moment and laughed. “Guess what? It’s an all-you-can-eat place.” What?! A Chinese got jipped at a Chinese restaurant!! We decided we’d come back on Christmas night to get our money’s worth.